Lisbon Hotels

Lisbon airport is the city's main international gateway (Portugal's other international airports are at Porto and Faro). All overland connections are through Spain, of course. The two main rail crossings are at Vilar Formoso (the Paris to Lisbon line) and at Marvã-Beirã (the Madrid to Lisbon line). Buses remain the cheapest way to get to Portugal, but not by much. Prices for the alternatives are coming down fast, thanks to the growing attraction of rail passes (even over point-to-point tickets) and the rise of budget airline services.

Lisbon's antediluvian trams are more than just a way to get from A to B - they're an essential Lisbon experience. Similarly, the city's three funiculars are an indispensible part of its charm. There are also trains, a rapidly expanding underground system and buses, which run into the night. Stick to public transport - the manic traffic makes cars or bicycles a stressful option.

Aeroporto de Lisboa (Aeroporto da Portela; flight information tel: 218 413 700) is about 4km northeast of the centre. Portugália and TAP both have multiple daily flights to Lisbon from Porto and Faro, and over 20 carriers operate scheduled international services.

Lisbon has rail links to most major Portuguese cities such as Coimbra, Porto and Faro.There are two standard long-distance rail journeys into Portugal. Both take the TGV Atlantique from Paris to Irún (in Spain), where you must change trains. From there the Sud-Expresso crosses into Portugal at Vilar Formoso (Fuentes de Oñoro in Spain), continuing to Coimbra and Lisbon. The other journey runs from Irún to Madrid, with a change to the Talgo Lusitânia, crossing into Portugal at Marvão-Beirã and on to Lisbon. Two other important Spain-Portugal crossings are at Valença do Minho and at Caia (Caya in Spain), near Elvas.

Buses are slower and less comfortable than trains, but cheaper - especially if you qualify for an under-26, student or senior discount. The major long-distance bus terminal is Arco do Cego (tel: 213 545 439; Avenida João Crisóstomo). From here the big carriers run frequent services to almost every major town in Portugal. Destinations with 10 or more services a day include Coimbra, Évora, Porto and Faro.The two major options for European long-distance bus travel are Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) and Busabout (www.busabout.com).

Of over 30 roads crossing the Portugal- Spain border, the best and biggest do so near Valença do Minho (E01/A3), Chaves (N532), Bragança (E82/IP4), Guarda/Vilar Formoso (E80/IP5), Elvas (E90/A6/IP7), Serpa (N260) and Vila Real de Santo António (E1/IP1). There are no longer any border controls.

The expanding metropolitano (www.metrolisboa.pt) system is useful for short hops and to reach the Gare do Oriente and nearby Parque das Nações. The Santa Apolónia link from Baixa-Chiado will hopefully be finished by the end of 2007. Entrances are marked by a big red 'M'. Useful signs include correspondência (transfer between lines) and saída (exit to the street). There is an impressive array of contemporary art at various stations, for example, Angelo de Sousa at Baixa-Chiado, and various artists including Hundertwasser at Oriente. Watch out for pickpockets in rush-hour crowds.

Lisbon can be quite stressful to drive around, thanks to heavy traffic, maverick drivers, one-way systems and tram lines, but the city is at least small. If you are used to driving in other European capitals you probably won't find it too problematic. There are two ring roads, both useful for staying out of the centre: the inner Cintura Regional Interna de Lisboa (CRIL) and the outer Cintura Regional Externa de Lisboa (CREL).

Companhia Carris de Ferro de Lisboa (tel: 213 613 054; www.carris.pt) operates all transport except the metro. Its buses run from about or to ; there are some night bus and tram services.

Companhia Carris de Ferro de Lisboa (tel: 213 613 054; www.carris.pt) operates all transport except the metro. Its trams run from about or to ; there are some night bus and tram services.Don't leave the city without riding the No 28 from Largo Martim Moniz or No 12 from Praça da Figueira through the narrow streets of the Alfama. Two other useful lines are the No 15 from Praça da Figueira and Praça do Comércio via Alcântara to Belém, and the No 18 from Praça do Comércio via Alcântara to Ajuda. The No 15 line features space-age articulated trams with on-board machines for buying tickets and passes. Tram stops are marked by a small yellow paragem (stop) sign hanging from a lamppost or the overhead wires.